![]() In order to get the stem out it is required that we remove the bungs and fasteners from the hull sides from the stem back to the second frame, including all of the batten fasteners, this gives Brian enough room for the final removal. The bottom frames are then joined together across the keel with a frame tie, these frame ties join both of the single frames across either side of the keel.Īs the work approaches the bow of the boat it gets more complicated, the rot wasn’t only attacking the bottom frames but had made its way up through the stem. There is eleven frames on both the port and starboard sides of the bottom, each of these frames are connected to the side frames with white oak knees and fastened with silicon bronze thru-bolts, and secured by a nut with a lock washer. The process of replacing the framework is slow and deliberate, it’s completed by removing each damaged frame in as good of condition as possible and using that frame as a template to create an exact replica. All of the newly installed wood will be treated with Smith Company Penetrating Epoxy, this product gets deep into the pores of the wood and helps to prevent any future rot from occurring. This frame work will be constructed mostly of white oak, with pine floor supports and a piece of amaranth for the gripe. Brian Richards our Refinish Supervisor, with the help of Scottie Naylor have been tackling the labor intensive process of removing and replicating each individual bottom frame along with the ribs, and chines as well as the keel, gripe and stem. As the bottom came off it was unfortunately realized that the rot was extensive throughout the white oak framework of her hull. The dry climate and clean water of Lake Tahoe make it ideal for the preservation of wooden boats, however in this case the outer layer of glass combined with some unforeseen rot, created the right environment for the rot to become active and take over.Īfter the layer of glass was peeled off, the next step was to remove the bottom planks, this was done by carefully sawing the double planked bottom in between the frames. Wood rot is actually a living fungus that needs moisture to become active, somewhere in the 28-30% saturation range. Wood rot is tricky though and can be hiding, lying dormant for years waiting to slowly creep out. In this case the glass bottom kept the boat afloat for 25 years. When properly applied to a viable hull fiberglass can make for a sound bottom that can last for years. More than 25 years prior when Roki II was known as Le Canot de mare she had a layer of fiberglass applied to her hull to make for an easier launching process. Originally powered by a Chrysler Ace 6-78, this boat was delivered to Saranac Lake, Ny June of 1940, eventually she found her way to Lake Tahoe, where her current owners with the help of us at Sierra Boat transplanted a small block Chevy v8 to help the boat perform better at Lake Tahoe’s 6250 ft altitude. Roki II Is a GarWood 19’ Deluxe Runabout, Model 110, what makes Hull #6579 rare is that it was the only Model 110 built at GarWood’s Marysville Michigan factory that year. The owners used the boat for the subsequent summer, upon that summers end we further inspected the frame work and bottom of Roki II, it was found that much of the bottom and its framework was falling victim to wood rot. Roki was involved in a slight mishap when it was banged into by another boat in 2014, in the midst of the repair from the incident it was noticed that there was some soft rotten wood included in the oak stem. The former can last a long time, the latter maybe less so but easier to renew with a quick bore out & re-line.In November of 2015 we began a very involved project of restoring the bottom on 1940’ 20’ GarWood, Roki II. ![]() Bronze or graphite-impregnated epoxy both come to mind. ![]() Special situations of particular stress like oarlocks may best be handled with some kind of bushing fitted to take the wear & tear. Urethanes are tougher when similarly employed both are a PITA to remove entirely should that become necessary. Silicone caulk will not bear much stress by itself in the way of working forces but can still move & maintain a seal. Where some time later any maintenance is planned or desired, something less permanent’s better employed. ![]() ![]() Structural joinings? Encapsulate with epoxy, frequently reinforced with even more, the better to spread the forces anticipated. Question then becomes what’s best practice given the nature of just what purpose that interface is intended to fulfill. Wood’s not good under repetitive compression either so some means of adding compressive resistance at the same time you’re making it resistant to water intrusion’s a plus, why drill-fill-drill usually involves epoxy. Where wood and water potentially come together, it’s good practice to introduce to the wood some kind of sealant or other stuff to keep the water out of it. ![]()
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